http://www.bloomberg.com/news/print/2013-04-28/shoppers-turn-blind-eye-to-bangladesh-in-6-bikini-hunt.html
Shoppers Turn Blind Eye to Bangladesh in $6 Bikini Hunt
By Apr 29, 2013
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In the wake of disasters in Bangladesh
garment factories that have claimed hundreds of lives in recent months, shoppers
in the west have shown growing concern about worker safety in developing countries. As long as it doesn’t mean an end to
bargains.
“It bothers me, but a lot of retailers are getting their clothes from these
places and I can’t see how I can change anything,” 21-year-old university
student Elizabeth McNail said, clutching a brown paper bag from clothier Primark
the day after a building collapse in Savar, Bangladesh, killed at least 381
people. “They definitely need to improve, but I’ll still shop here. It’s so
cheap.”
Both of Primark’s (ABF) stores on Oxford Street in central London
heaved with crowds sorting through clothing under neon signs heralding “Amazing
Fashion Amazing Prices” last week. The floors were littered with crumpled
t-shirts, jeans, and sundresses, while shoppers waited in queues 50-deep to pay
for summer wear like a 1.50-pound ($2.32) fluorescent sun visor and 7-pound
cut-off denim shorts.
Primark, a unit of Associated British Foods Plc (ABF), is
one of at least five retailers whose products were made in the eight- story
building that collapsed. Loblaw Cos.’ brand Joe Fresh, U.K. budget
retailer Matalan Ltd.
(MTN), plus-size womenswear seller Bonmarche Ltd. and Spanish department
store El Corte Ingles have also said they had suppliers in the building.
A 2012 report by consultants McKinsey & Co. said
purchasing chiefs at American and European clothiers considered Bangladesh the
“next hot spot” due to its low costs. Over four-fifths plan to cut China sourcing,
where wages are rising, because of declining profit margins. The Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association says the country is the world’s
second-largest apparel exporter, after China. Textiles account for about 80
percent of Bangladesh’s exports.
Electrical Wiring
The shift to Bangladesh has created an $18 billion
manufacturing industry, yet one that is marred by factories with poor electrical
wiring, an insufficient number of exits and little firefighting equipment. More
than 1,000 Bangladesh garment workers have died in fires and other disasters
since 2005, according to the International Labor Rights Forum, an advocacy group
in Washington. A November fire at a factory making clothes for
companies including Wal-Mart Stores Inc. killed 112 people.
Clothing companies have come under increasing
pressure to lower costs as the rise of fast fashion at cut-throat prices has
trained consumers to expect $5 T-shirts and $6 bikinis. The cost of clothing in Britain has dropped 20
percent since 2005, according to the U.K.’s Office for National Statistics, while food is up 43
percent.
Sunglasses, Handbag
Even small price increases in the name of better worker safety would be enough to turn away some shoppers, like American exchange student Shannon Atwell. The 21-year-old spent 12 pounds on a dress, sunglasses and a fake-leather handbag at Primark last week. “I didn’t buy a 13-pound dress because I thought it was too much,” she said. “If prices went up I wouldn’t buy from here.”
As attention turns to Bangladesh, Primark is among
the companies with the most to lose. The retailer has more than doubled sales in
the last five years to 3.5 billion pounds, far outpacing rivals on the British
high street like Hennes
& Mauritz AB (HMB) and billionaire Philip
Green’s Topshop. That’s been driven by a focus on trendy, regularly updated
fashions and low prices on garments imported from Bangladesh and other Asian
countries.
Contractor’s Subcontractor
Primark says it hired a supplier called Simple Approach to make some of its garments. Simple Approach, in turn, contracted with a company named New Wave, which had a workshop in the collapsed building.Since the factory collapse, Primark has vowed to push for structural surveys of buildings as part of supplier audits. Spokesman Chris Barrie said the retailer has sent senior staff to Bangladesh to work with a non-governmental organization to get food and other assistance to the local community. He declined to comment further.
Primark has many pages on its website dedicated to what it calls its ethical trading stance. The company outlines its code of conduct, supplier auditing process, and its own performance. The site includes a short film about how the company provides health and nutritional education for female garment makers in Bangladesh.
The program “has encouraged me to learn more and work harder,” Habiba, a 24-year-old worker whose surname was not provided, said in a case study on the site.
Conduct Code
The Ethical Trading
Initiative, a consortium of apparel makers, trade unions and
non-governmental organizations that establishes codes of conduct for companies,
has spoken out against the “horrific incident” in Savar and called for better
safety. The ETI declined to comment specifically on Primark’s sourcing
practices.
“This terrible tragedy highlights the urgency of
putting a stop to the race to the bottom in supplying cheap means of production
to international brands,” said Jyrki Raina, general secretary of the Industrial
Global Union, which says it
represents 5 million garment workers worldwide, including some at the
collapsed Bangladeshi factory.
The challenge for Primark is balancing activist and
government demands with customer desires for cheap clothes. Those two forces
collided April 27 when a group called War on Want held a protest outside
Primark’s Oxford Street store, according to the BBC.
Nike’s Reaction
While Primark will likely see little impact from
the disaster, despite the global headlines, “it’s something they have to monitor
more carefully because while it won’t hurt trade, it may impact consumer
perception of how well they look after their suppliers,” said Honor Westnedge,
an analyst at retail industry trackers Verdict
Research.
Perceptions do matter. Just ask Nike Inc., the world’s largest sporting-goods
maker, which improved Asian factory conditions in the late 1990s after its stock
sank amid widespread reproach from advocacy groups, politicians, and shareholder
activists. Critics said workers were hurt by low wages, forced overtime, and the
use of toxic chemicals in poorly ventilated facilities. To avoid similar censure, Primark should put more time and effort into monitoring its suppliers, according to Planet Retail analyst Isabel Cavill.
“They could probably afford to invest in their factories, but it’s a tough market and it’s very difficult to up prices,” Cavill said. “The consumer may need to start getting used to higher prices.”
To contact the reporter on this story: Sarah
Shannon in London at sshannon4@bloomberg.net
To contact the editor responsible for this story:
Celeste Perri at cperri@bloomberg.net